In 2013, Literature Festival Provides ‘Healing Touch’ for Troubled Karachi

February 22nd, 2013 by Annie Ali Khan

Click here to see published version in Asia Society Blog.

KARACHI — It sounded like a bomb blast. The violent rumble rent the air, drowning out the moderator’s words. Gasps and startled voices filled the auditorium, finally giving way to murmurs. Torsos bent away from the windows straightened up again as everyone realized that there was no smoke or rubble, no violent jolt or smell of burnt flesh. “It’s raining,” said a woman in the middle row, relief mixed with weak laughter in her voice, addressing no one in particular. The view outside through the glass had gone from a cloudy landscape to sheets of slate grey that opened up like a massive showerhead over the dusty city.

A literature festival becomes a political statement in a city like Karachi, where bomb blasts, like thunderstorms, have become part of the natural order. In a town rife with ethnic violence, turf wars, targeted killings and militant attacks, the celebration of books here last week felt fragile yet significant. “In less than four years the festival has become a credible, very attractive event at a time when Karachi has been going through its worst period,” said former Information Minister and author Javed Jabbar. “This contrast is the most remarkable aspect of the festival at a time when everything is supposed to be destructive about the city.”

The Karachi Literature Festival (KLF), held this year from February 15 through 17 at the Beach Luxury Hotel, has grown rapidly since its inception in 2010. Inspired by the Jaipur Literature Festival across the border in India, the annual event was the brainchild of Ameena Sayyid, managing director of Oxford University Press (OUP) in Pakistan, and writer and translator Asif Farrukhi. In four years, the festival has expanded from 34 sessions and 37 speakers in its first year to 129 sessions and 214 speakers this year. Attendance has risen from 5,000 to 15,000, and a parallel Children’s Literature Festival was established this year.

The KLF has consistently managed to attract well-known writers from around the world, with Shamsur Rehman Farooqi, Karen Armstrong and William Dalrymple having been keynote speakers. Homegrown talents like Mohammed Hanif, Mohsin Hamid and H.M. Naqvi represent the vibrant new voices of Pakistan, and are one of the reasons why the festival has created such a draw for the public (despite, this year, a number of key Indian speakers’ being absent, like writer Shobha De and Indian poet and lyricist Gulzar).

“I feel the event is a balm and it’s like a healing touch for all of us in Karachi who are so disturbed and so wounded by what is going on,” said Festival co-founder Sayyid. “It is only through expressing our thoughts and our feelings about what is going on that we will find some peace.”

With the on the streets outside, security remains a major concern for the organizers. According to Sayyid, the government has provided adequate security for the event. The Karachi police, she said, have been “extremely helpful.”

A number of officers could be seen patrolling around the periphery of the venue. At the main gate of the Beach Luxury Hotel, a guard with a handheld metal detector checked bags before allowing visitors to walk around the heavy barricade and cross the massive parking lot to the hotel entrance, where their bags were subject to a manual inspection by two more guards before they were allowed to walk through a scanner into the lobby. One of the guards flipped through the pages of a slim hardcover in my purse. Apparently even the literature itself was suspect.

The law and order situation in Karachi has slowly deteriorated over the last few years, with almost 800 reported killed in 2012 alone by Human Rights Watch. With elections expected sometime in March this year, an already tense city seemed to teeter at the edge of a violent precipice. By the last day of the festival, news of the Hazara Shia killings — over 80 people reported dead from a bomb planted in a busy market in Quetta — was everywhere.

Black armbands and moments of silences marked the closing day of the festival as people expressed their grief. Speaking to the Sunday panel on “Pakistan Through Foreign Eyes,” Yassin Musharbash, a journalist with German news magazine Der Spiegel, could hardly believe we were all still there at the event.

“This is a country where people are gathering here and talking about Balochistan in all openness and two hours later you have 80 dead in Quetta. A terror attack on a scale where most other countries would stop operating for three weeks out of shock,” he said. “I don’t know many other countries where that sort of thing happens.”

Still, the festival went on — just at it had in previous years, because that is what Karachi does. Yes, the violence continues, but so does the struggle to change the country. Abdul Sattar Edhi‘s humanitarian work in Pakistan was commemorated with the launch of a book Half of Two Paisas: The Extraordinary Mission of Abdul Sattar Edhi and Bilquis Edhi, about his life and decades of work. Novelist Mohammed Hanif unveiled his small book on a very big problem — a hard-hitting 46-page profile of missing Balochis who have been “disappeared” by shadowy paramilitary forces. Meanwhile, prominent Urdu poetess Tanveer Anjum read an ode to Pragaash, a Kashmiri all-female rock band that had to disband after security threats as a result of being deemed “un-Islamic.”

But it was Malala Yousufzai, whose voice was not heard at the festival, who most fully embodies the struggle of literacy and education against the forces of terror and ignorance in Pakistan. Malala had been asked to serve as the official ambassador for the Children’s Literature Festival, but was undergoing further surgery in the UK at the time. Still, her inspiration was felt. Issues of education and human rights were central to the discussion. And the voices of women in particular increasingly took center stage.

Sitting beside me during one of the panels was a pretty, bright-eyed 20-year-old, Shehzeen, who had recently started working for Edhi to help support her family after her father fell ill. “I really like the atmosphere at the festival,” she told me. “I want to educate myself more after meeting everyone here. I want to build a life before I get married.” Her friend, Pramilla, also working for Edhi, felt much the same way. “My parents are very supportive, but my uncle is Tableeghi [a conservative Islamic party], he does not let the issue go. A girl must get married off. I want to study and not marry.”

The day after the festival, protests wracked the city. The main artery to the airport, Sharah-e-Faisal, had been shut by security forces. I wondered if those who had come in from elsewhere had made their flights the night before, or whether their stays would be involuntarily extended. The street outside my apartment was quiet. Offices were shut, the usual buzz of midday traffic was just a distant murmur. There was nowhere to be. Nice and quiet, I thought, the perfect chance to sit down with one of the new books I’d picked up at the festival.

Asif Aslam Farrukhi said it best during his opening ceremony speech. “This city has been described as a nexus of international terrorism, and how we all wish that it becomes known for the festivity associated with literature more than anything else.”

Nadia Rasul contributed to this post.

Zakia Parveen, a Pakistani Acid-Attack Survivor, Visits New York for the Women of the Year Awards

From left to Right: (back) Minky Worden(HRW), Annie Ali Khan, Zakia Parveen, Waheed Pervez, Sunbul Naz, (front)Sarah J. Robbins (Glamour), Alison Goldman(Glamour) and Rita Pearl(RMP) at the Empire State Building Rooftop.

From left to Right: (back) Minky Worden(HRW), Annie Ali Khan, Zakia Parveen, Waheed Pervez, Sunbul Naz, (front)Sarah J. Robbins (Glamour), Alison Goldman(Glamour) and Rita Pearl(RMP) at the Empire State Building Rooftop.

When Glamour honored Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy at the Women of the Year Awards earlier this month, she took the stage with one of her heroes, Zakia Parveen— a central protagonist of Obaid-Chinoy’s Oscar-winning documentary Saving Face. Zakia’s quiet confidence, evident in each frame of the film she’s in, was just as clear as the 40-year-old acid attack survivor stood on stage in front of a packed house at Carnegie Hall alongside Obaid-Chinoy, sharing her experience and urging women like herself to speak up against violence. Saving Face, amongst other things, documents Zakia’s struggle to bring her ex-husband to justice, who, after she filed for divorce from him, threw acid on her face. The doctor who treated Zakia told her she was lucky she only lost one eye in the brutal attack.

The day before the awards, I arrived to receive Zakia and her family at the airport. I was going to be Zakia’s translator for the duration of her stay. I did not know much about Zakia beyond what I had seen in the documentary and a brief phone conversation before her arrival. This was to be her first trip outside of the country, and her son’s first time in an airplane. In Pakistan, the documentary had brought forth all sorts of reaction from people. There had been backlash directed at Sharmeen for highlighting this shameful practice, but more importantly there had also been a new surge in reforms to protect women from acid attacks and other forms of violence. I myself was brought up in Pakistan and can relate to some if not all of the social taboos Zakia has faced.  Women are still discouraged to appear on public media platforms or to discuss personal issues publicly lest they sully the honor of the family. I wanted to know how Zakia had overcome these challenges.

The temperature was in the low 50s and it was a little chilly inside the airport as well. There was a thin trickle of passengers when Zakia walked out, flanked by her two children—her daughter Sunbul(15) on one side and on the other her son Waheed(27.)

Zakia was dressed in a brown shalwar kamiz and baby blue sparkly scarf wrapped around

her head. The scars visible in the early part of the documentary had healed significantly, and her skin looked smooth. As she approached, the prosthetic mask that covered her missing nostril and part of her cheek became visible. It contained a painted eye with lashes and a pupil drawn inside. Though well crafted, it lacked the spark and vigor of her remaining good eye. I gave Zakia a hug in greeting, and Sarah Robbins of Glamour asked me to convey to Zakia what an honor it was to have her here.  The airport may have been cold, but we did our best to provide a warm welcome to the country.

“I covered my face because people on the flight were staring and were starting to talk about my face,” Zakia told me. Her comment evoked the images I’d seen of her in the documentary, where she often covered her face and wore sunglasses when she went out.

Later that week, though, she remarked that New Yorkers did not look as much.  I told her that it took a lot to make New Yorkers stare.

If Zakia was overwhelmed in any way by the whirlwind schedule, it did not show. She was smiling and calm at the rehearsal at Carnegie Hall, where she took directions from Sharmeen on where to stand and when to speak. Afterward there was a trip to the Glamour beauty department, where both Zakia and Sunbul picked out foundation, eye shadows, nail colors and lipsticks. I helped pick out pink glitter nail polish for Sunbul who wore pink throughout the trip, and lipsticks in various shades of peach for Zakia. The girls in the beauty department pulled out trays full of makeup and there were oohs and aahs. For once I did not need to translate for anyone. Waheed was the only one looking bored.  As our tour continued, one of the staff members we stopped to chat with was shocked to hear that 40-year old Zakia had a 27-year old son. “I married when I was 16, but my family registered me as 18 on the marriage certificate,” Zakia said.

Riding the subway with them for the first time was as exciting for us as it was for them. “Women here drive trains too?” asked Sunbul with amazement when she saw the conductor of the incoming train.  In the packed, bright interior, I noticed passengers starting to look at Zakia’s face, but it seemed that she was enjoying herself too much to mind. There were just a few short days to see so much, she lamented.

A trip to Madame Tussaud’s was packed in, along with a visit to Battery Park, where Zakia was introduced to Lady Liberty. When Zakia’s footwear proved unequal to the task, Sarah brought her a pair of sneakers, after which there was no catching up with her as she zoomed from place to place. Zakia told us that she would walk miles to the nearest bazaar back home. “The rickshaws are too expensive,” she said.

The day after the awards, Minky Worsen, Human Rights Watch’s  Director of Global Initiatives, greeted us at their office in the Empire State Building. During the Q&A, Zakia spoke about her struggle against her own family and her community, which discouraged her from fighting the case against her husband. “We would tell everyone the gas cylinder exploded in my face while I was cooking,” she said. No one understood why she wanted to leave her husband, despite seven long years of abuse.  “Only men are human beings,” she told the crowd.  “Women are cattle.”

There was a brief tour of the famous Empire rooftop before we headed to the café for a snack. Minky, Sarah, Zakia and Sunbul shared a coconut vanilla cupcake. I, too, joined the communal snack at Zakia’s insistence. Afterwards, Minky asked me how to say thank you.  “Shukriya,” Minky said to Zakia.  “Thank you,” replied Zakia, as they shook hands.

On the way to the airport, I asked Zakia what she most enjoyed about her trip to New York. “No one here looks at me uncomfortably when they speak to me,” she said. “The women I met were all so nice, so supportive.”

She has two more operations to go before her surgery would be complete. She said she wanted most an artificial eye. It would help her go out in public without having to cover her face. Zakia said she drew strength from the support of her children who continued to stand by her side.

Zakia’s bravery illustrates the need for readers to support efforts to help acid attack victims. To donate, click here [link to: http://www.glamour.com/inspired/women-of-the-year/fund.%5D

HERE IS THE LINK: http://www.glamour.com/inspired/women-of-the-year/fund

Read More : http://www.glamour.com/inspired/women-of-the-year/2012/sharmeen-obaid-chinoy#ixzz2Czeo6PfP

To view the blog post on Glamour.com. Click here.

Fair & Lovely–Marie Claire U.S. November 2012

Annie Ali Khan

Annie Ali Khan: Marie Claire November 2012

Annie Ali Khan: Marie Claire November 2012

The Glamazon Next Door

Published in Tribune Magazine Pakistan

Credits:
Photography by Ali Hussain
Written by Annie A. Khan
Styling and wardrobe by Annie A. Khan

On a Tuesday morning, I opened the front door of my apartment to greet Aamina Sheikh—model, actress and leading lady of the film Seedlings which had screened at the New York City International Film Festival held at the Tribeca Cinema earlier this month.

The screening had officially marked a rite of passage for her–a crossing of threshold from television to film, from theatrical actor to film actor, to possibly a film star. Yet, standing across from me, dressed in a baby-pink top with black polka-dot mesh covering the shoulders, blue jeans and strappy summer sandals, with hair neatly tied back was a sweet college girl or a friend from school I could have been meeting after ages—a quintessential, archetypal girl next door who could also do high fashion, a description not unlike the one a common friend of ours had spoken of me.

Sheikh had arrived in New York a few days earlier, along with her husband, Mohib Mirza, also her co-star in the film. The trip to New York was very much about the movie; the first screening of which had run to a packed auditorium—the Pakistani community had come out in full force to lend support and show enthusiasm for a project from home—and the film was billed for a number of nominations, including best actress, which she later won. Within the span of 5 years, Sheikh had acted in more than a dozen television-drama serials, graced the covers of fashion glossies and bagged coveted modeling assignments— including becoming a face for L’Oreal Pakistan. Her second film Josh is in its final post-production stages and was expected to be released soon.

The trip sounded hectic enough—she mentioned media appearances, press interviews, red-carpet events and multiple screenings, but included in that schedule were reunions with old friends and family and sight-seeing in the megalopolis–all within the span of 10 days, before she left for Los Angeles and Chicago. This was a girl, who in the course of our 40-minute conversation, had used the word, “work” 20 times. Days after she left New York, I heard from an actor friend that he had run into her at an audition for Law and Order, an American television show.

Sheikh had arrived on time for our breakfast meeting– three days after the first screening of Seedlings– but she had to leave for an afternoon meeting soon after. Not wanting to risk losing the chance to conduct the interview, I had decided to prepare breakfast at home. We were seated across from each other on a small dining table. I had prepared tall glasses of fruit smoothies and a hot mushroom omelet, which she layered with strawberry jam and rolled together inside a piece of toast. This was our third meeting. The first time we had met was months ago in Karachi: that, too, was a meeting over plates of hot breakfast. I remember being startled by her laughter, high in pitch and perhaps meant to disarm, but instead making me feel slightly awkward. Despite the easy-going disposition there was a sensible air around her and the whiff of a disciplined personality. Was the friendliness a façade to not scare people away or part of the package that made Aamina Sheikh one of the most sought after artists in the industry?

And she is beautiful, of course. The second time we met was the day after she arrived in New York. I had scheduled her for a photo shoot to accompany this article. At one point during the shoot, the photographer remarked how much the woman on his camera screen resembled a famous Hollywood actress.

If she was feeling pressured or overwhelmed by the pace of her days, it did not show. Instead I heard words, like “fantastic” and talks of finding the time to walk around Tribeca, and how on “one or two occasions it felt like, Oh my God, I’m graduating again” because of the way family and friends had converged to be with her. New York, as it turned out, was familiar territory.

“Well I have not spent a considerable stretch here. I studied at Hampshire [College], so I came here every break that I got,” she says referring to her four years at university in Western Massachusetts, pursuing her undergraduate degree in film studies.  “I got a flavor of what it feels like to live in New York. The pace of the city and, you know, losing yourself in the subways and the crowd and observing the difference between the Wall Street crowd versus the SoHo crowd.”

The time spent had not been without struggles though.

“I remember I used to be so broke that I would just go by places and just sort of make a mental note of things at that time I could not afford.” For a weekly $100 stipend there was work to be done that no one else wanted to do. A particularly grueling assignment, she recalled, involved SpongeBob Square Pants, a children’s cartoon character. For three months “I used to scan and colour every single bit of SpongeBob, and that dude has a million colours on him,” she says.

I wondered how much of that experience played into her decision to move back to Pakistan after graduation. There had been resistance from her brothers to stay, both of whom were settled in the U.S., where they felt there were more opportunities for her artistic pursuits.  But she had made up her mind.

“Not for a second did I miss America. I mean, there was no nostalgia. I didn’t regret my decision,” she says.

The second of four siblings–two brothers and two sisters– she was, so far, the only one who had actively taken up arts as a career. I felt family resistance was something she was used to facing; and there were hints of  resistance to her career, but I did not prod her for details. Later in the conversation, however, she did mention, “I was studying film and my dad used to tell people, Ke haan ye tau computer graphics parh rahee hai.”

I knew that story well. It was the burden of good Pakistani middle-class girls with artistic passions—a place I too had come from–the constant struggle to legitimize what are considered leisurely activities by grounding them in academic platforms. Hence, a degree in film for Aamina Sheikh, the aspiring actress,  who returned to Pakistan and shopped her CV to various channels for a job.

“The next week I got a call from Geo TV, and they told me that you start as a freelancer, on this kids program, and if everything goes well, they get you onboard full time.”

There was no SpongeBob to be coloured in, here. In fact, within a week she was given the helm of a weekly television program, working three to four cameras, while directing 30 children and the host. “I was amazed,” she says, “at how forann hee (immediately) someone gave me a job like this, because  in New York I was literally doing the kind of work that no one else wants to do.”

But with the position came its own set of challenges. Her background in the field was limited to academic training. In Pakistan, “your production team is made up of 20 people who are all from different places, who have different mindsets, who are all men, and who use certain lingo, and to understand that, and not be the person jo amreeka se parh ke aye hai aur pataa nahin kya samajhtee hai apne aap ko and execute a production was something I learnt in my two years at Geo.”

It was a lesson in the work environment of Pakistan, but also, perhaps a lesson in living in Pakistan too.

One of her biggest challenges came from Mohib Mirza, the host of the show she was directing— who is now her husband. Where there sparks? Not according to her.

“We started pretty much on opposing sides, because I was there to change the show and he was there comfortable in the show,” she says. But where Mirza was resistant to her overzealous efforts to prove her value to the channel, he was also the one to whom she reached out for help. “At that time the channel was paying me a certain amount and I had no idea whether that was a good amount or not and I had no one to really speak to,” she says. “Slowly, slowly, I gathered the courage to get advice from him.”

She had run into Mohib before, when she was a student at Lyceum and would go see his Urdu plays. “I was doing theater in English with Rahat Kazmi, and Mohib studied at Comecs [College] and he was brought in every time Lyceum wanted to do an Urdu-language play.“  He was also a witness to her struggle with her family. There was skepticism over her work at a television channel “and then the hours…  the crazy hours which the family didn’t expect and I didn’t expect, so he was a witness to that and he sort of had my back.”

Their love for acting may have brought them together, but there was no denying they belonged to two different worlds..

“No one points it out or talks about it, but I’m sure people pick it up,” she said. “But I think, in general people are appreciative. I think it sort of makes them realize that it’s possible that the integration of the two opens up so many avenues. “

But how did she herself feel about it?

“Mohib is really well-exposed mentally;  although he’s very much a Karachi boy and he understands the roughness, toughness,” she says. “He’s lived Karachi inside out, but in the process of doing so he has miraculously managed to really keep his mind open and expose himself to the outside world,” she added. “He is very Urdu Daan and he has used that to his advantage, and he’s perfected it almost so that’s very intriguing for someone who lives with him… I mean, I feel like I learn a lot from him and he learns from me.”

I had no doubt about Sheikh’s ability to learn and to absorb. After all, she had just pulled off the feat of successfully portraying a mother with a lost child; notwithstanding the fact that she has never had one in real life.

“You know there’s some roles that demand so much of you that as an actor it fulfills your desire to perform–and this role demanded that,” she says.

It was clear to me that Aamina Sheikh is a woman who loves challenges.

Police Reform to Stabilize Pakistan

Photography by Annie A. Khan
From left to right: Aitzaz Ahsan, Arif Ali Khan, Hassan Abbas and Suzanne DiMaggio

Without laws a country is simply lawless— submerged in anarchy. But what good are laws without effective government agencies to enforce them? With visions of the Wild West and brave Sheriffs, somewhere along the plot of the Gary Cooper starrer ‘High Noon,’ I went to attend the event on July 24th, organized by Asia Society, New York to mark the launch of an extensive report called “Stabilizing Pakistan through Police Reform.”

The guests– part of the 20-member committee including senior Pakistani police officials and academics responsible for drafting the report– were Hassan Abbas, senior advisor at Asia Society and a professor of International Studies in the College of International Security Affairs at National Defense University, Aitzaz Ahsan, a barrister-at-law and Senior Advocate at the Supreme Court of Pakistan and a recently re-elected member of senate and Arif Ali Khan, a former distinguished professor of Homeland Security and Counterterrorism at National Defense University. The discussion was moderated by Suzanne DiMaggio, Vice President of Global Policy Programs at Asia Society. Complete video coverage of the event is available via the Asia Society website.

“Education is also important, culture and arts are important we are not denying that. The theoretical model we are giving is, for those states where internal crisis, instability, violence, terrorism, rise in crime is the major issues you’ll have to deal with those issues first and foremost through local law enforcement,” said Hassan Abbas speaking about the importance of the report.  “And in law enforcement you need to have a criminal justice system, and police are the central part of the criminal justice system.“

I started to wonder if Abbas has read Mohammed Hanif’s “Butt and Bhatti”.  The points he had made so far made a lot of sense to me. We do need a functional criminal justice system in Pakistan, a framework where a police officer first determines the crime, then, based on the evidence, decides whether to apprehend the suspect, followed by a due legal process afforded the accused individual in a criminal court. The alternative scenario, according to Abbas, is the one where a gun and a head are involved, unfortunately an all too frequent reality.

The opposite was true for the American police, according to Arif Ali Khan, who specializes in the history of the evolution of the police system within the United States. The American police used to be too entrenched in their respective communities, before being trained to be more militarized and distant. But that too backfired and was tweaked toward a more humane ideal, leading to the current scenario where an officer won’t offer you his doughnut, but will give a polite smile and a nod of the head when he sees you.

Last up was Aitzaz Ahsan, who broke the police reform issues down into three broad categories. The first category was social reality, comprising the relationship of the police with civilians. “Yarron ka yaar” was the term he used to define the power play that makes a police officer bend the rules for his friends.

“The social normative reality is that the measure of power is the ability to abuse power. If you can’t abuse power then you can’t have respect,” said Ahsan.

The second issue he said was structural–that of internal problems within the police hierarchy, but also their place in the social structure of society.  And the third problem was technological, having to do with technology’s potential role in apprehending and ideally preventing crime.

The discussion was then opened to the public and a few questions regarding U.S and Pakistan’s relationship, the blasphemy law and U.S. aid to Pakistan were brought up.

At one point, speaking about the history of the involvement of the United States in the region Aitzaz Ahsan said, “ You cannot walk the streets of New York with a dog without a polythene bag to pick up the droppings there and then as the dog decides to ease itself, and you (the U.S.) left mountains of dog droppings on the border between Pakistan and Afghanistan,” he said referring to the proxy war of the United States with the Soviet Union.

I wondered what the reaction of Sherry Rehman, Pakistani Ambassador to the U.S., will be to the analogy the following day in D.C. where she will be attending an event with the same panel. For now, I was curious to know why Aitzaz Ahsan got involved with the police reform project. So I made my way to him through the throngs after the event was over.

“A man like me would never be a party to something that strengthens the police further,” he said in answer to my question why, when we were already being policed by the military, would he want us to be policed by the police too. “I have been on the wrong end of the police battle far too many times in my life and the wrong side of the military jackboot in Zia’s time to be at all sympathetic to an exercise which will entrench police further. Not at all.”

Where the grass is greener

Published in: Dawn Blogs

A heat wave had hit New York in recent weeks. “Slayings soar as city hits boiling point” screamed the NY Post headline. Outside, the deep grey of the concrete and asphalt that give the city its customary hue, looked washed out in the blazing sun. The silvery tones of glass and steel shimmered and sizzled.

But here at Central Park—a man-made oasis at the heart of Manhattan—the grass was as green as ever, at least the patches that were not covered with towels, tarps and sheets on top of which lay picnickers and, astonishingly, sunbathers. The term ‘sunbather’ refers to people who like to, well, bathe in the sun, implying sunlight is something like a shower. But given the intensity of the rays that day, the effect was more of a deluge than a gentle sprinkle. And yet, there they were sprawled across the sloping grounds of Sheep Meadow—several football fields worth of clear grassy land enclosed on all sides by thick trunked trees.  It was like Woodstock for sun seekers.

“I’m just hanging out with my boyfriend,” said Vanessa Anderson, a 27-year old blond from Long Island. “It’s nice to be out. We were cooped up in his apartment yesterday because it was too hot,” she said as sweat dripped down her neck in the 90-degree searing heat. Anderson said she liked the sun. “I don’t mind,” she said, referring to the sweating. She had been lying in direct sunlight for close to 3 hours now. I could feel a patch on my leg burning as I sat next to her. Surely there was more to this than making acquaintance with Apollo? I asked her if she was trying to get a tan. Anderson, who worked in the shipping business, said she had been out in the sun around 10 ten times already this summer. She did not like going to tanning salons, she said. But she did like a bit of sun and a bit of color. “I think you feel good and you look thinner,“ she said.

I thanked her and moved on to the two Brazilian ladies sunning themselves nearby.

“We are used to the sun.  But I guess it does feel good because if you look around everybody is doing the same. It’s like a drug,” said one of them.

For Hannah Zeffrico, a 28-year old financial consultant and her two friends the activity was also a way to get together with friends.

“We haven’t seen each other in couple of months so we’re getting updated on life and love and men,” Hannah said.

“Having a few snacks,” said the second friend.

“And getting a tan and being outside and getting fresh air. We’re all inside 50 hours a week,” added the third.

Hannah described tanning akin to “having bronzer on your face,” she said. “It defines any sort of muscle contour.”

Then Hannah asked me “Do women in Pakistan like to tan?”

I looked at myself. I was a study in contrast to the members of this congregation. Unlike the bathing suits, shorts and t-shirts around me, I wore full- length trousers, a cotton top with a denim jacket (yes a jacket, I did not want to burn) and a large sun hat I had bought at a specialty store. Nothing had been left to chance and whatever little skin was exposed was slathered in 40 SPF sunscreen. Sunglasses covered half of my face; that is, if you could see them under the hat. I may have been overdoing it perhaps, but in Karachi, where I grew up, the sun was ever-present and not much appreciated. A cloudy day was our idea of good time to venture outside. Sunbathing would never occur to us there.  On the contrary we did everything to avoid its rays: from the tinted window on expensive cars to the schoolgirls holding their folders to shade their faces.  The huge market of skin lightening products in Pakistan speaks for itself, with advertisements splashed across bus stops and an armada of products available at every price range.

“It’s like the weight loss industry in the West,” Hannah said.  “ I heard that it’s comparable to the skin lightening industry in India, and probably Pakistan, where everyone aspires towards lighter. Everyone here aspires towards thinner,” she continued. Then Hannah remembered something she had seen recently seen on a news website.

“Did you guys see the thing about bleaching on Jezebel?” she asked her friends, referring to the recent advertisement for a bleaching product for women’s nether regions being aired in the subcontinent. “It was like an absurd commercial where a woman walks in and she is like sitting on a couch next to her partner, like feeling really unattractive, and then she goes into the bathroom and bleaches herself and comes back and he ravishes her. It was absurd,” she said.

“That’s just scary,” her friend added.

As I walked home in what must have looked like a beekeeper’s suit on this record hot day, the old saying about grass being greener came to mind.  It seemed this was especially the case in Sheep Meadow.